Taste, smell, and spice tend to absorb the lion’s share of a restaurant critic’s attention, not to mention his adjectives. Texture often pulls the short straw. Non-western cuisines have been quicker ...

You’re reading the Food Scene newsletter, Helen Rosner’s guide to what, where, and how to eat. Sign up to receive it in your inbox. Several precious feet of space in the restaurant’s trim open kitchen ...

Emma Orlow is a former editor and reporter for the Northeast region at Eater, who focused primarily on New York City, where she was born and raised. She covered restaurants, bars, pop-ups, and the ...