Fried fish balls are airy golden puffs. Glossy duck pad krapao is punched up with five-spice and Thai basil, crowned with a curly-edged fried egg. The setting is lo-fi – bright lights, pocket display ...

Icy ruam mit (T2) is a party of mango, chunky water chestnut and jelly in coconut milk. You’re not here for five-star surrounds or service; remember that and you’ll soon be in the queue. Best for: A ...