Fried fish balls are airy golden puffs. Glossy duck pad krapao is punched up with five-spice and Thai basil, crowned with a curly-edged fried egg. The setting is lo-fi – bright lights, pocket display ...

Hoi tod – the fried-to-a-crisp seafood pancake – is the dish that most people stop to watch being made in the window of this two-year-old Bourke Street restaurant. A chef deftly moves planks of rice ...